Clothing Materials Science-----Basic Knowledge of Clothing (Continued 5)

Second, hemp fabric (1) characteristics of hemp fabric

Hemp Fabrics refer to pure fabrics of hemp fibers (including ramie and linen) and blends or fabrics thereof. It has the following characteristics:

1. Hemp fiber is a cellulose fiber whose fabric has properties similar to those of cotton.

2. Hemp fabric has the characteristics of high strength, good hygroscopicity and strong heat conduction, especially the strength of natural fiber.

3. The dyeing performance of the linen is good, the color is bright, and it is not easy to fade.

4. It is not sensitive to alkali or acid. Mercury can occur in caustic soda to enhance strength and gloss. After a short period of time (1~2 minutes) in dilute acid, it does not change substantially. Of course, strong acid still poses damage to it.

5. Good anti-fungal properties, not susceptible to moisture and mildew.

(ii) Variety of hemp fabrics

The variety of hemp fabrics is much less than that of cotton and wool, but because of its unique rough style and cool moisture permeability, coupled with the return to the natural tide in recent years, its varieties are increasingly enriched.

1. Pure hemp fabric

(1) Ramie fabric Ramie fabric is a fabric made of ramie fiber, which is divided into two types: hand-made and woven. Handmade ramie is commonly known as Xiabu. Because of its uneven quality, it is used as a mosquito net, linen lining and lining material. The quality and appearance of woven burlap are better than that of hand-made summer cloth. The cloth surface is close and flat, even and clean. A variety of garments can be made after bleaching or dyeing. Ramie Clothing is very cool, breathable and sweaty, it is an ideal summer fabric.

(2) Linen fabric Linen fabric is made of flax fiber, which is divided into primary color and bleach. The primary color linen is not bleached, dyed, and has the natural color of flax fibers. Bleached linen is smoothed, silky, softer, whiter and more elastic than the original color. The linen is made into a fabric of various summer clothing, such as outerwear, shirts, curtains, sofa fabrics, etc., because of the smoothness and smoothness of the cloth surface, the softness and elasticity of the hand, and the advantages of being cool and comfortable, sweating and not close to the body.

(3) Other hemp fabrics In addition to ramie linen and linen, there are many other hemp fabrics, such as jute cloth, sisal sackcloth, and burlap linen. These hemp fabrics are rarely used in clothing, and are mostly used for packaging bags, fishing boat ropes, and the like. In addition, the popular Apocynum clothing in recent years as a health care apparel is also increasingly recognized and accepted by people.

2. Hemp blended, interwoven fabric

Ramie and flax fiber can be blended or interlaced with other fibers. Most of them are blended or interlaced with low proportion of hemp fiber and chemical fiber and natural fiber. The purpose is to gather the length of various fibers to make up the shortness of the fabric and make the fabric performance better. It can reduce the cost price and is welcomed by consumers.

(1) Hemp and cotton blended interwoven fabrics Hemp and cotton blended fabrics are generally blended with 55% hemp and 45% cotton or hemp and cotton. The appearance maintains the unique rough and crisp style of the hemp fabric, and has the soft characteristics of the cotton fabric, which improves the shortcomings of the linen fabric which is not delicate and easy to fluff. Cotton and linen interwoven fabrics are mostly made of cotton and warp, and the texture is firm and smooth, and the hand feels softer than pure linen. The cotton-cotton blended fabric is mostly light and thin, suitable for summer clothing.

(2) Wool blend fabrics A variety of fabrics woven from different wool and linen blended yarns, including woolen herringbone and various burlap. The wool and linen blended fabric has the characteristics of smooth, firm and elastic, and is suitable for making young men's and women's clothing, suits, skirts , vests, etc.

(3) Silk and linen blend fabrics Silk and linen fabrics are new products developed by sand washing in recent years. It combines the excellent characteristics of silk fabrics and hemp fabrics, while also overcoming the weakness of the strength of silk sand washing fabrics, resulting in a cool and elastic hand. This fabric is suitable for making summer outfits.

(4) Hemp and chemical fiber blended fabrics, including fabrics blended with hemp and a chemical fiber, and fabrics blended with two or more chemical fibers. Such as: polyester, numb, sticky linen and other fabrics, "three in one" fabric.

a. Polyester linen: refers to a fabric made of polyester and hemp fiber blended yarn or a fabric made of polyester and linen blended yarn. Including polyester tweed, polyester linen woven fabric, linen polyester canvas and polyester linen spinning, polyester and linen golf and other varieties. Polyester linen has both polyester and hemp fiber properties, which are breathable and have a strong hair feel. Suitable for making suits, fashion, dresses, jackets, etc.

b. “Three-in-one” blended fabric: refers to fabrics blended with two fibers, such as polyester wool, polyester wool, polyester nitrile. The fabric has the characteristics of coolness, comfort, and sturdy breathability of the hemp fabric, and has the excellent characteristics of the other two kinds of fibers, such as polyester and linen, both hemp style, hair polyester, good elasticity, not easy to wrinkle, easy The characteristics of washing and ironing are suitable for various purposes, and it is very suitable for making all kinds of fashions, coats, skirts and trousers for men and women.

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Third, silk fabric (a) the characteristics of silk fabric

Silk fabric mainly refers to pure or blended and interwoven textile woven from silk. It has been widely used because of its unique and excellent use. Its main features are as follows:

1. Silk fabrics have good elongation and elasticity, but have poor anti-wrinkle properties.

2. Silk fabrics have good hygroscopicity, dyeability and luster, and the dyed fabrics are bright and bright. Its water content can reach 11~12%.

3. Silk fabrics are acid and alkali resistant. It has a certain stability to inorganic acids (concentrated inorganic acid can hydrolyze silk), is sensitive to alkali reaction, but is more stable than wool.

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