The environmental protection belief of fast fashion brands is a rough road in the dispute of public opinion

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Image source: Quartz

What does it mean to promote a sustainable fashion collection for companies with more than 2,100 stores in 88 countries like Zara?

The answer is this retailer, from the huge supply system, the factory and operator system to the physical store network all need to undergo complete innovation changes, and this is not an easy thing, but most of the fast-fashion brands are still Competing with the environmental protection business, many of them have to do it.

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"Fast fashion" has largely changed people's consumption concepts and models of clothing. Take H&M as an example. Since it opened its first physical store in Shanghai in 2007, H&M has more than 450 physical stores in China.

The brand's cycle from design to launch takes only one to two weeks, which virtually increases the consumer’s desire to buy, and the low price of the new model also makes the customer’s buying behavior more bold, and these have become the accusations of fast fashion. Guiding excessive consumption eventually leads to the source of environmental pollution.

Fast fashion brands have made many efforts in environmental protection in recent years. They hope to reverse the public’s perception and maintain their own brand image. However, the dispute over public opinion is a rough road.

According to Buzzfeed News, the Changing Markets Foundation released a report last week stating that it found serious contamination in several large viscose fiber factories in China, Indonesia, and India, and claimed that H&M passed Eight of them purchased raw materials and Zara was purchased from four of them. Tesco, ASOS and Marks & Spencer are also on the list.

As soon as this report was published, more than 128,000 people signed a petition asking fashion retail giants such as H&M and Zara to stop buying raw materials from the polluting factories in the report.

Investigators Found Wastewater Treatment Sites Near Viscose Fiber Factory in China

Not surprisingly, H&M, the most active environmental advocate in the fast fashion field, responded immediately. Related personnel told Buzzfeed News that they “respected” the findings of the report and would follow up on several of the alleged polluting factories.

An H&M spokesperson stated that the company is working on a new type of manmade fiber, and has developed a “tool” to evaluate the contamination of chemical usage and wastewater treatment systems in viscose production equipment. They will use their own "Tools" investigate several factories and according to the results of the investigation, they will take all necessary measures.

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This survey once again pushed the fast fashion brand to the cusp, which made consumers start to doubt that the "environmental protection and sustainable development series" they have been advocating is not just a marketing gimmick. Did they not have any materiality? action.

H&M is one of the brands that supports the most sustainable development. Starting from 2010, it will launch multiple environmental protection series each year. In 2013, it launched the largest global environmental protection action – old clothing recycling operations, where customers can Any brand of any style of old clothes needed is delivered to any H&M store worldwide for recycling and reuse. Since 2015, the Conscious Collection has also become a permanent series, which mainly uses organic cotton, recycled polyester fibers and Tencel fibers.

However, the British "Guardian" pointed out that retailers need to spend 12 years to completely reuse 1,000 tons of fashion waste, and it takes only 48 hours to produce so much waste, so most of the independent clothing in the United States Donation, in the end it is still difficult to escape the outcome of landfill.

H&M 2017 Conscious Action Series

H&M Eco Series makes pleated skirts from waste plastic

In an interview with the Huffington Post, H&M’s Director of Fashion and Sustainability said: “The biggest changes in the market today are consumers, their growing awareness, the increasing demand for products they buy and The service has a sustainable value."

Pressure from consumers is also imposed on other retail companies. In order to win the trust of consumers, TOPSHOP's group Arcadia, Marks & Spencer, and ASOS have published information and data on companies and factories on the Internet, making them as transparent as possible. ASOS even A "source map" was produced to provide the ratio of men and women to each factory location and employee in the world.

In addition, another retail giant, Zara, certainly can't be left behind. Despite being late with the competition, the brand launched its first environmental series, “Join Life,” last year. However, according to Fashionista, the sustainable development measures of Inditex Group, which Zara is affiliated with, are mainly focused on the reduction of electricity and greenhouse gas emissions in “eco-efficiency stores”. The environmental protection series with a small market share does not significantly reduce waste. The production of the eco-friendly series is not cheap, and the number of consumers who actually buy because of sustainability is even more.

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Taking the environmental protection route is one of the necessary ways for the brand to establish a good image. Like Uniqlo and PUMA have held short-term recycling activities for old clothes, but these are more like marketing activities. It is a big test to stick to it. Taking into account the overall energy consumption of the garment manufacturing industry, as well as the fashionable style when designing the environmental protection series, the actual environmental protection effect that can ultimately be produced is quite limited.

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